Paris Menswear | Miharayasuhiro F/W 2013

Is it me, or has Noma Han lost too much weight?

The name Miharayasuhiro might not ring a bell, but certainly Puma sounds a wee bit familiar? To be exact, Puma Black Label – this Japanese designer has been working with the German company once distantly related to Adidas. Yasuhiro’s passion lies in shoes, and his inspiration, the rich and multi-faceted street fashion of urban Japan. With the gift of foresight, he became one of the visionaries of Tokyo’s fashion scene. His first store, in Aoyama, Tokyo, sold footwear under the name of SOSU. And as the local saying goes, if you can make it in Harajuku-Aoyama, you’re ready to conquer the world, and he did. He started designing men’s and women’s wear, and in 2000, nailed a top multi-year deal to design shoes for Puma. Two years later, Miharayasuhiro debuted in Italy’s Pitti Uomo – fashion week.

When I viewed the collection, I was fresh out of the Wachowski’s latest film, Cloud Atlas. I thought to myself, “this is what Neo Seoul’s urban folk would wear, I think”. The look is smart street, or street smart – either way, the silhouette is sharp, slim and multi-layered, typical of street fashion. When I visited Tokyo last year in the late winter, early spring season, one thing that I quickly realized was its street fashion. I had come expecting the future, but I’m told that the fashion, which may be visibly enhanced, is never fundamentally altered – it does make for what certainly seems like a lull in fashion, but if you look closely, everybody has their own unique style. Similarly, tailoring forms the basis of this Fall/Winter 2013 collection – slim suitting in tonal black-and-white color combinations. The trousers look relax, complete with pleat-front detailing and a dropped crotch, but it never brings the look down – the authoritative mood lingers. Colors come in the form of printed shirts, and chunky knits create volume.

As with Fall/Winter, outerwear remains the statement piece. The biker jacket is minimal with asymmetric fastenings and epaulettes, while the padded jacket, with its fabric-blocked leather and wool, gives it a formal finish. Subtle detailing like knitted gilets add texture to pants and shorts while detachable winter collars in knitted fur and shearling evokes tactility. We also see embroidered  Japanese symbols, gold-embroided reptile scales (albeit less extravagant than what you might typically find in Osaka’s Ameri-kura and Tokyo’s Harajuku).

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