This is a flight you’d like to catch.
Pictured, Sashimi Mori
The idea of an aviation themed restaurant, while rare, isn’t uncommon. There has been a surge of sorts in recent times, particularly with the Airbus A380 aircraft coming into being. In fact, there are two Airbus A380 themed restaurants – one in Taipei, and the other in Chongqing. They aren’t related, though, but regardless, the concept is the same – to deliver quality dining in an aircraft cabin. Being impressed with the attention to detail with the decor in those respective restaurants, the Singapore iteration might come as a somewhat disappointing shock. SushiAirways, in the heart of Kampong Glam, has an aviation inspired (as opposed to “themed”) interior. Between you and me, it’s more static industrial than aeronautical, actually. The interior recalls the cabin of a vintage Douglas DC-3 – you know, the ones that used to make Kallang Airport their port of call (before the airport was moved to Paya Lebar with the entrance of the larger prop and jet age, and subsequently Changi in 1981). The restaurant also has service staff dressed as flight attendants, albeit inappropriate to the era of the DC-3. The uniform’s more Hooters Air than Imperial Airways, if you know what I mean.
The former head chef of Grand Hyatt Singapore, chef Wong helms this restaurant. He has had much exposure, taking charge of the sushi and sashimi counters at Mezza9, and this experience injects both sophistication, along with a certain artlessness, the latter of which I shall elaborate on a little later.
Just like Singapore Airlines’ website, Sushi Airways’ menu isn’t completely user-friendly. Weekday set lunches are available at a steal, but note that a la carte items will not be available. Dinner, for the most part, is only a la carte, with starters, main courses, rolls, sushi and sashimi going at what you’d find for a mid-ranged restaurant. For a more refined “book the cook” experience, there’s the fine dining style Omakase which hones in on the finest of seasonal ingredients. With a seating capacity of just 33, it’s advised that you make a reservation, two days before if you want to have the latter.
The Omakase’s individual courses were fairly classy, with a demonstration of technique, but as a whole, it was all over the place. Omakase isn’t just a fine dining meal – it’s an experience, and the individual parts are as crucial as the sum of all the courses. There was no build up, nor any climax delivered – few of the courses seemed to complement or enhance each other. It’s certainly fun to an amateur, but with the Omakase commanding similar price ranges as places like Keyaki, I would’ve like to seen more finesse. Nevertheless, it’s still a fairly nice place to visit.